Winter Hike through the Canyons of Crna Reka and Bukovska Reka

When winter takes hold of Maljen and Divčibare, nature retreats into silence, yet it still whispers to those who are willing to listen. During our winter visit to Divčibare, we decided to seize the opportunity and explore two stunning canyons – Crna Reka and Bukovska Reka. We didn’t plan on canyoning, but rather a light walk and exploration of the winter landscape with our children. This kind of trip, combined with caution and respect for nature, gave us an unforgettable experience.

Access to the Canyons – From Belgrade or Divčibare

If you’re coming from Belgrade, the best route is via the Ibar main road, taking the turn toward Kosjerić before Valjevo. After the village of Balinovići and the “Podbukovi” quarry, there’s a widening where you can park, then cross a meadow and a small wooden bridge to reach the trailhead.

However, we came from Divčibare. From the center of the settlement to the village of Podbukovi, the drive takes about 30 minutes (around 16 km), along a forest road that winds around the Maljen plateau, offering views of frozen streams and dense forest.

Winter Conditions – No Canyoning, But Full of Charm

In the summer, Crna Reka is known for canyoning – a real adventure through the riverbed, involving walking over rocks, swimming in crystal-clear pools, and even jumping from waterfalls. But in winter, all of this becomes impossible – the rocks are covered in ice, the water is freezing, and the stones are slippery. So we chose to turn the tour into a light walk, as much as conditions allowed.

The trail is unmarked, but the path is visible – trampled grass and occasional red markings on the rocks. We walked carefully, stepped over frozen streams, and followed the riverbed while avoiding spots where ice and rocks form traps.

Crna Reka – Quiet and Pure

Crna Reka flows here between dark magmatic rocks, winding through a deep canyon. The watercourse is about 8 kilometers long, but in winter, you can only pass through parts of it. Still, it’s enough to feel the power of this place. They say Crna Reka is one of the cleanest rivers in Serbia – and indeed, we could see the pebbles on the riverbed.

Along the river, nature has formed small waterfalls, pools, and cascades that tempt you to swim in summer but create a fairytale impression in winter. At several points, we had to stop and turn back because it was too slippery – but that’s part of the charm of these walks – you always know you’ll return when it’s safer and when the water calls to cool you from the summer heat.

Continuing Through the Gorge of Bukovska Reka

Back at the start of the trail, we didn’t stop. Not far away flows Bukovska Reka, another natural gem of the region. It springs beneath the peak Golubac and flows through a vivid gorge, cutting through dense forests and rocks. Bukovska Reka receives Crna Reka as a tributary and then continues toward Valjevo, where it joins with the Zabava river to form the Gradac river.

Unlike Crna Reka, the riverbed of Bukovska Reka feels more open, yet it’s equally enchanting. The gorge it flows through is surrounded by coniferous and deciduous trees, and the frozen springs and occasional viewpoints add to its charm. We only walked part of the way, but it was enough to feel its character – wild, yet tame in winter. This part of Maljen – between Golubac, Hajdučka Kosa, Pear, and Ljuti Kamen – is a true hidden corner of nature.

On the edge of the forest, near Crna and Bukovska Reka, there are also natural water springs – some with a distinct mildly salty-sour taste, which are also visited by the local wildlife.

Plans for Summer and Recommendations

In summer, the canyon of Crna Reka is a true adventure – walking through the riverbed, pools up to two meters deep, waterfalls several meters high, the possibility of swimming, and even a bit of adrenaline. The tour is around 8 kilometers long, takes 6 to 8 hours, and requires good physical condition, steady footing, and non-slip footwear. In winter, it’s completely different – quieter, more reserved, ideal for a shorter walk and soaking in the atmosphere that only untouched nature can offer. The same goes for Bukovska Reka – in summer it provides a longer route and an explorer’s spirit, while in winter it’s perfect for a more peaceful walk.

How to Get There

📍 Starting point: Village Podbukovi
🛣️ From Belgrade: Ibar main road – turn for Kosjerić before Valjevo – Balinovići – Podbukovi
🛣️ From Divčibare: Asphalt road via Čučuge and Pejovići, around 30 minutes (16 km)
🚗 Parking: Widened area near the “Podbukovi” quarry, 200 m before the bridge
🚶‍♀️ Trail: Unmarked but visible – follows and crosses the Crna Reka riverbed, with an option to continue into the Bukovska Reka gorge
🧭 Difficulty: Easy to moderate (easier in winter, but caution due to ice is advised)
📌 Summer: Canyoning (6–8 hours), swimming, adventure
📌 Winter: Shorter walk, limited passage, enjoyment of frozen nature and silence