Vodice, the Crni Rzav River, and Ribničko Lake – A nature getaway near Zlatibor
If you’re looking to escape the crowds and the tourist bustle of Zlatibor, all you need to do is head about ten kilometers away, toward the weekend settlement of Vodice. This area belongs to the village of Dobroselica and is known for the hundreds of cottages that started appearing here back in the 1970s, when people from Užice began using Vodice as a peaceful place for rest. Today, the settlement is spread out, with little urban planning, but it’s still very much alive – especially during spring and summer weekends when locals come to spend their days in nature.
Vodice lies between Zlatibor and Tornik, at an altitude of around 950 meters, naturally tucked between forests and meadows. Cabins and wooden houses are scattered across gentle hillsides, and although the area is expanding, there’s still plenty of space for silence and tranquility. The asphalt road leading to Ribničko Lake passes right through this part, so many travelers stop along the way – to take a walk or simply enjoy the view.
Crni Rzav – A river with a dark bed and clear water
From Vodice, a trail through the woods leads down to the Crni Rzav riverbed. This river springs from Čigota, in the area known as Carevo Polje, and flows through the central part of Zlatibor. Along its way, it creates numerous meanders. In this section, it’s especially calm – perfect for a peaceful walk along the river.
The name Crni Rzav (meaning “Black Rzav”) comes from the river’s dark-colored bed, which is the result of the underlying serpentine rock. These rocks, often streaked and shimmering in shades of green and gray, are sometimes called “snake stone” due to their unusual texture and hue. The Latin root serpens – meaning “snake” – is where their name originates. This bed gives the water a unique visual contrast: from afar, the river appears dark, almost black, but up close – it’s crystal clear, cold, and clean.
Interestingly, in the summer months, the Crni Rzav can warm up to as much as 28°C. However, when we visited in spring, the water was still icy cold.
The riverbanks are partially marshy, with soft, damp ground that gives you the feeling of walking on a sponge. That element adds a special charm to the setting, making you feel like you’ve stepped into a space that nature hasn’t quite surrendered to people yet. The entire area radiates serenity – there’s no noise except for water and birds. We spent nearly two hours walking along the river without encountering another soul.
Ribničko Lake – Dark waters and silence
From there, the road takes you toward Ribničko Lake, just a few minutes’ drive from Vodice in the direction of Tornik. This artificial lake was created in 1971 by damming the Crni Rzav, and today it serves as a water reservoir for Zlatibor and the town of Čajetina.
The lake stretches about two kilometers, and due to the same geological composition of the soil, its water appears dark, almost black – especially under a cloudy sky. Although swimming is prohibited (as it’s a drinking water reservoir), fishing is allowed, and you’ll often see anglers on the far side of the shore.
We stopped at a roadside clearing, where it’s easy to walk down to the water. The spot isn’t developed, but it’s perfect for a short break or picnic. There, we were greeted by silence and a lake so still it barely rippled.
As the day neared its end, a few more people arrived – some for a walk, others with kids, and a few with fishing rods. Though it lacks big attractions or marked trails, Ribničko Lake has its own quiet kind of beauty – ideal for those who want to unplug for a moment and simply be there, without the pressure of going anywhere or doing anything.
How to get there
The easiest way to reach Vodice, the Crni Rzav River, and Ribničko Lake is from the direction of Zlatibor. From the town center, head toward Tornik via the main road that passes by Hotel Tornik and then curves uphill to the right. Follow the signs for Tornik and Ribničko Lake. After about 6 kilometers of paved road, you’ll reach the intersection near Vodice – a weekend settlement recognizable by its scattered cottages and log cabins nestled in pine forests. Here, you can park your car and continue on foot through the village and toward the river.
If you’d like to go directly to the Crni Rzav, keep an eye out for a roadside clearing or a small forest path leading downhill – there are a few along the main road, and the best approach is to follow the natural slope of the terrain. To reach Ribničko Lake, continue driving another 2–3 kilometers along the same road, all the way to the dam and the roadside turnout by the lake. The entire road is paved and easy to navigate, accessible by any regular car.
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