Bukulja, Garaško Lake, and Risovača Cave

When exploring Serbia, we often gravitate toward distant regions while overlooking the closer ones, dismissing them with the excuse, “They’re nearby; we can visit anytime.” As a result, Šumadija is frequently skipped or merely passed through on route to farther destinations. It’s high time to correct this oversight. As a small step toward that goal, here’s a one-day excursion idea to Bukulja, Garaško Lake, and Risovača Cave.

Bukulja

This time, Aranđelovac wasn’t on our itinerary for a simple reason: we embarked on this trip in January, and the weather didn’t allow us to linger in the area. Our goal was a walk around Bukulja, a visit to the observation tower, a stop at Garaško Lake, and, of course, a tour of Risovača Cave.

Although the day was unusually dry and warm for January, nature clearly wasn’t in its full glory. Set off for Bukulja, just 80 km from Belgrade. Located, as the oft-repeated phrase goes, “in the very heart of Šumadija,” Bukulja rises to 696 meters above sea level, towering over Aranđelovac and offering numerous “health trails” that lead you through the mountain’s picturesque surroundings.

From the town and its famous park, a trail leads to the summit of Bukulja, where you’ll find a 19-meter-high observation tower. From there, you’ll enjoy breathtaking views of the nearby town, Venčac Mountain, and the surrounding landscape. Note that the mountain’s highest point is inaccessible due to a military building, but the observation tower serves as a perfect endpoint for your walk.

The walking trail is easy, winding through dense deciduous forest. The incline isn’t steep, making this hike suitable for those with lower fitness levels looking to improve, as well as for parents with young children.

Hiking Trail to Garaško Lake

For those ready for a longer and challenging walk, a trail leads to Garaško Lake, located at the foot of the mountain. The route forms a loop, with a steeper ascent back to Bukulja’s summit after the lake. The trail is nearly 20 km long and ideal for spending an entire day immersed in nature.

Garaško Lake is an artificial reservoir created in 1976 by damming the Bukulja River and its tributaries to supply water to Aranđelovac and the surrounding area. Since the lake is actively used for water supply, its surface area often varies. Don’t be too surprised if the view differs from photos, you may have seen. During our visit, the water level was quite low, so exploring the muddy shore was only partially successful.

On one side, the shoreline is steep and forested, making it less accessible, while on the other, it’s relatively open, allowing close access to the lake. The lake is rich in fish, so you’re likely to encounter anglers along its banks.

After visiting the lake, we returned to town to explore Risovača Cave, the highlight of this trip.

Risovača Cave

The cave is named after the Risovača Hill, where it was accidentally discovered during quarrying, which destroyed about 20 meters of its entrance. The cave itself is 135 meters long, and with its side channels, it extends nearly 190 meters. Risovača is considered the best-researched cave in Serbia and is one of only five caves in the Balkans known to have been inhabited by Neanderthals.

Fossil remains found in the cave belong to animals that once thrived in the steppe landscapes that dominated this area during the last Ice Age. Notable finds include remains of cave bears, lions, hyenas, wild horses, aurochs, giant deer, woolly rhinos, mammoths, and bison. Additionally, traces of Neanderthal hunters’ material culture—stone and bone tools—confirm that the cave was inhabited during the Paleolithic. The fossils are estimated to be around 36,000 years old, making this one of the last known Neanderthal habitats in the region.

In the cave’s main corridor, you can see reconstructions of the animals whose remains were unearthed, while the so-called “Hall of the Risovača Man” features a life-size reconstruction of a prehistoric Neanderthal family of hunters.

All discovered remains are housed in a museum we unfortunately didn’t have time to visit but certainly plan to on another occasion. With such a rich collection, it’s a stop no one should miss.

How to Get There

Aranđelovac is about 70 kilometers from Belgrade. The fastest route is via the Belgrade–Niš highway, exiting at the Mali Požarevac toll station and continuing through Mladenovac. Alternatively, you can take the Ibar Highway, although the journey is slightly longer.