Povlen – Circular Tour of Veliki, Srednji, and Mali Povlen

When one finds themselves in front of such beauty, words fall short to describe the spectrum of colors that stretch across the rolling hills. It’s an Indian summer, and the weather is more than favorable. We are enjoying the true golden autumn. That weekend, in mid-October, we set off to the west of Serbia, and here we are, at the foot of Povlen, ready for a circular hike.

It seems to me that Povlen is at its most beautiful in autumn, as the colors that spill across these hills are nothing short of a fantasy. The idea behind this trip is to visit the three most famous peaks – Veliki, Srednji, and Mali Povlen, as well as the Ploče site. We start at the Debelo Brdo location, which is located on the main road from Valjevo to Tara, and from there we head towards the Mountain Lodge. At the lodge, there is a “signpost” in the form of a giant barrel with signs indicating which peak is in which direction and which path to follow. Like most organized hikes on this mountain, our route is a circular one, starting with Veliki Povlen peak at 1,271 meters above sea level. From the lodge, we immediately face the mountain and begin the steep climb of about 500 meters to the summit. The path is clearly visible and marked, but it is narrow and steep, so we must go in a line. At this time of year, due to the leaves on the ground, extra caution is recommended to avoid slipping. The ascent is a steady 500 meters, and right after that, we reach a small clearing where we take our first short break for the guide to explain where we are and where we will go next.

We continue along the ridge over the highest point of Veliki Povlen and start heading toward Srednji Povlen. The entire trail that leads to all three peaks alternates between ascents and rocky terrain, forest, and open meadows. One moment that left an impression on me was a scene that was first comical, but later made me reflect deeply. After exiting the forest, we started across a meadow when we encountered another uphill section that led to Srednji Povlen. In front of us was an elderly woman walking her own way, and I think I heard that she was chasing a sheep to prevent it from wandering too far into the forest. This small woman, probably over 75 years old, barely 1.5 meters tall, climbed that hill in one breath, without even blinking. She stood at the top waiting for us and yelled at the young men, “Why are you so out of breath?” At first, we all laughed, of course at ourselves, but I think we later reflected on how spoiled and weak we are, no matter the physical condition we (don’t) have.

After a short break at Srednji Povlen to take in the view and possibly recharge, we continue toward the Ploče site. Yet another wonder of nature in our region. The guide told us that he had seen similar rocks only at the foot of Rila in Bulgaria. These black rocks rising above the precipice are actually volcanic rocks formed by eruptions at the bottom of the ancient ocean. Fossils found in this area support this theory, as this part of our country was once submerged under the ancient Tethys Ocean, later the Paratethys Ocean, and finally the Pannonian Sea. Since it would take pages of text to explain all of this, anyone interested should research it further, as it’s fascinating to learn about what happened in our region in times so distant they seem almost inconceivable. If that sounds strange and unbelievable, take a look at this map to see where volcanoes once stood in our country.

You’ve probably heard stories about the famous spheres of Povlen. This time, we weren’t near them, but those stone spheres, surrounded by many tales, are yet another proof that the area was once covered by the sea. These spheres are sandstones (a type of sedimentary rock) that were also formed through complex geological processes during the rise and fall of sea levels, as well as tectonic disturbances 150 million years ago.

After visiting the Ploče site, we return the same way and head towards the spring, continuing towards our final destination, the highest peak of the mountain – Mali Povlen at 1,347 meters above sea level.

Yes, I know it sounds contradictory, but it’s true: Mali Povlen is the highest peak of the mountain, while Veliki Povlen is the lowest. The middle one, Srednji Povlen at 1,301 meters, holds its central position and justifies its name.

At the foot of Mali Povlen, there is Kneževo Field with a small church. Nearby, there’s also a wooden lookout tower that we, of course, visit. Here, we all dive into homemade juices sold by a young couple, and I immediately grab some juice, though I’d rather call it a smoothie, made from elderberry, since the guide told us that elderberry is good for immunity and helps improve blood circulation. I didn’t need to hear that twice; I took a double dose right away.

From this meadow to the summit, it’s about a 20-minute walk along a path through the forest. After a short rest, we head back to the Mountain Lodge, and the return journey is quite simple and quick, as it follows a wider, more accessible path.

Povlen is part of the Valjevo mountain range, which is an extension of the Old Vlahic Highlands, stretching to the west of Valjevo towards Mačva. This mountain chain begins with Maljen, followed by Povlen, Jablanik, Bobija, and Medvednik, and then the Sokol Mountain, Jagodnja, Boranja, and finally Gučevo, which steeply descends towards Loznica.

The circular tour of Veliki, Srednji, and Mali Povlen is truly a classic among hiking circles and is often one of the first locations that beginner hikers visit. The perfect balance of alternating slopes and vast meadows will satisfy any taste, and with a total distance of 13 km and an ascent of 665 meters, it can be considered a moderately challenging hiking tour.

This is probably one of the closest locations that rises above 1,000 meters above sea level and is near Belgrade, so if you’re looking for a location for a full-day hike, head towards Maljen and Povlen.

Circular Trail Distance: 13 km
Total Ascent: 665 m
Lowest Point: 1,031 m
Highest Point: 1,347 m